Thursday 30 June 2011

Basic Chess Ideas

Chess begins with a race. This is a race to move your pieces into productive spots. Think of the back row as the bench. Having any of your men (besides the king) on the bench is a bad idea as we need all of our pieces to win against a worthy opponent.

Generally they say to start with a center pawn and I always start with this idea. Since the bishops cannot move, we will need to move at least two pawns to let them out. Generally it is best to use center pawns for this job as moving the side pawns can weaken your castling position.

After that the knights and bishops should become a priority, and the rule is knights before bishops. This applies mostly to your second chess move, and the reason is pretty easy to understand. The knight knows where he wants to go, on his first move (assuming the pawns are out of his way) he only has three choices. He can move to the side of the board, he can move in front of his king, or he can move in between the two. Of the three moves the move towards the center is almost always best. This is because from that square he has the greatest number of moves. He should be ready to move to 8 squares. The more choices a chess piece has the more valuable he is. Now it is rarely 8 moves that he will have because pieces are often in the way, but even though he cannot move there now he is protecting that piece and if anyone were to capture then he could capture back.

Bishops should come out after because it is not so clear where they want to go, often we need to wait to see what our opponent will do before we develop them.

Queens shouldn't be brought out early. This means she should wait until you are castled and all the knights and bishops have moved. This is because she is a target, and if you bring her out early, you may have trouble bringing the other pieces out as other pieces can chase her around the board. If you wait then the knights and bishops can help protect her.

Rooks should come out last as they are not very valueable when the board is filled with pawns, their true value is shown as pawns start to disapear. Often players will bring them out in the first two moves, but this is a huge mistake as it prevents castling (at least on one side), wreaks the pawn structure, and exposes the rook to attack.

Another idea in the opening, which is the first 10 or so moves, is to castle. Castle early, castle often they say, and it pretty much means castle every game that you can. Also it is a good idea to prevent your opponent from castling as it can result in a quick win for you with proper movement. Castling serves two purposes, one it protects your king, and two it prepares your rook to attack. If you do not castle and instead opt for an early attack, then you may leave yourself open to a counter attack which can be very embarrasing.
Lastly attack the center. The center four squares should be focused on. If you can control the center then you will be faster then your opponent. If you can move through the center, and your opponent must move around it, then you will be able to traverse the board quicker. Also good center control can lead to cramping your opponent. If you can cramp your opponent then he will have trouble moving his pieces at all. Cramping is when your push your pawns in such a way that his pieces are left with few, if any, moves availible to them. It is like putting your opponent in a straight jacket.

Tuesday 28 June 2011

Chess Tips...


Are Chess Tips Useful?

Of course they are!  Like in any other game, tips can be very helpful for rapid improvement.  Unfortunately, chess is such a complex game that just a few tips are not enough to allow you to jump to the next level.  Among the more than 160 lessons available on this site, I have included numerous tips that pertain to the specific situations covered.  If you are serious about improving your game, I invite you to take the tour and see what the site has to offer!
Here are some very general tips that you will hopefully find helpful:

General Chess Tips - Openings

Chess Tip #1: Opening Choice

Make sure you choose openings that fit your style.  If you are a tactical player, do not choose the English opening with white, and the French Defense with black, for instance.

Chess Tip #2: Time to Learn

When you select an opening, make sure you have the time necessary to master it.  Some openings, like the Sicilian Defense, are incredibly vast and complex and require countless hours to learn and understand.  If you do not have the time, pick openings that are more "compact."

Chess Tip #3: Develop First

Do not succumb to the temptation of going after your opponent right away.  Remember, the opening is the phase of the game where you are trying to deploy your forces.  Whenever you are getting ready to make a move in the opening, ask yourself if it fulfills the goal of development.

Chess Tip #4: Fight for the Center

Do not give up the center!  Always remember the importance of the center of the chess board.  Make sure your pieces are developed in such a way that they can contribute to the fight for the center which is almost sure to occur later on.

Chess Tip #5: Be Aware of Gambits

Gambits are quite common in the opening phase of the game.  When you are tempted to take the pawn you are being offered, always make sure that you know what your opponent's ulterior motive is!   

 General Chess Tips - Middle Game

Chess Tip #6: Make the Transition

Your goals during the middle game are very different from those in the opening.  When the time comes, make sure you take a moment to acknowledge the end of the opening phase, and set your strategy for the next phase.

Chess Tip #7: What is He Doing?

Remember, the game of chess involves two players, not just you.  No matter how enamored you are with your own plans, make sure you always ask yourself about your opponent's intentions.

Chess Tip #8: Know When to Calculate

You are not a computer.  You can not calculate countless moves ahead on every single move.  Develop a sense as to when you should spend a lot of thinking time calculating, and when you can get away with using your intuition.

Chess Tip #9: Don't Stop

If you are in the middle of calculating a combination, make sure you don't stop too early.  Analyze in your head the final position and assure yourself that you have gone deep enough.

Chess Tip #10: Have a Plan

As obvious as this sounds, the fact is that players often forget to look at the big picture and make sure the moves they are making are part of a bigger plan.  Do not make this mistake!

General Chess Tips - Endgame

Chess Tip #11: Role of the King

Remember that in the endgame the king is not a liability anymore.  Instead of having to protect him, you can actually use him as a very dangerous weapon!

Chess Tip #12: Calculate More

Now that so many pieces are off the board, you can take the time to calculate more often and deeper than before.  Do not let your opponent surprise you with a move you haven't thought of!

Chess Tip #13: Study Endgames

There are many endgames that you can just not win during the game if you don't already know how.  So dedicate some of your preparation to the endgame, and focus on those you are most likely to encounter.

Chess Tip #14: Avoid Time Pressure

Tournament chess revolves around time controls, and the last thing you want is to lose a game because of time.  Pace yourself to make sure you will have enough time left when nearing the time control.

Chess Tip #15: Analyze Your Games

No matter what the result of the game was, make sure you take the time to carefully go over it.  Nothing helps you learn better than your own mistakes!

Friday 10 June 2011

50 Chess Strategies to gain the upper hand over your opponent

Here we are discussing some basic strategies that can give you advantage, however microscopic it may be. Of course there is always exception to the rules, but exceptions occur much less frequently than the normal situations, don’t they? These strategies are described from White’s point of view, so what is good for White is bad for Black and vice versa.
Pawn structures
  1. Pawns are strong when they are in a chain; try to avoid splitting them into isolated groups.
  2. Isolated or hanging pawns tend to be a liability, try to avoid at least till the end game.
  3. Pawn chain shapes that look like /\ (an inverted V) from your side tend to be stronger than those that look like a \/.
  4. Doubled pawns are weak, try to avoid getting them.
  5. If you can maintain center pawns, you get more options to organize attacks.
  6. Your own pawn chains may block free movement of your pieces, mainly the bishops if stuck behind the chain. Avoid this disadvantage.
  7. Pawns cannot move backwards. Sometimes the opponent will deliberately lure you to advance your pawns to create weaknesses in your pawn structure. So think carefully before pushing them forward.
  8. Pawns in front of your castled king are there to guard the king. Try to avoid breaking up their line unless you have planned to launch a king-side attack with those.
  9. Check the possibility of getting a passed pawn and then defending it. A passed pawn becomes a thorn in the opponent’s flesh and even when it fails to become a queen, it can gain you significant material advantage through opponent’s efforts to neutralize it.
  10. Passed pawns in rook’s file are weaker than passed pawns in other files in the end game as it is easier for the opponent’s king to block the pawn in rook file.
Knights
  1. Knights play well in complex and locked positions. Assess their value and plan their movement accordingly.
  2. A knight posted on d6 and e6 squares can be a nuisance to your opponent. Try to get them there (with adequate support of course).
  3. Knights play well in the center part of the boards. Try to avoid keeping them at the sides (a- and h-files) unless your tactical plan calls for such positioning.
  4. Knight fork can be a very potent weapon. Creating such possibility can upset the plans of your opponent.
  5. Knights have a relatively poor play in the end game when the board is fairly open but with a number of opponent’s pawns ready to advance.
  6. In the end game, a knight may be helpless in preventing your opponent’s pawns if those are on two sides of the board.
Bishops
  1. Bishops, if not developed early, may get bogged by your own pawns blocking the diagonals. Be aware of this.
  2. Bishops play well if there are many open diagonals and a bishop pair in such situations can give you a great advantage.
  3. For above reasons, bishops are more helpful in the end game.
  4. If your bishop can control the long diagonal towards your opponent’s castled position, it can give you considerable leverage in your attack on the king.
  5. If you have only a single bishop in the end game, half the squares on the board are inaccessible to it. But with a few linked pawns of your own, a bishop can be a great help to support your pawn march and delay your opponent’s pawn advance (if you can position it in time).
  6. In the end game, a bishop can be better than a knight if the pawns are at two sides of the board.
  7. In general, bishop pair is more advantageous than the knight pair during the end game.
Rooks
  1. Rooks, like bishops, play better if there are some open files.
  2. Try to take control of open files with your rooks. Two rooks in same open file provide a lot of opportunities for attack.
  3. Rook positioned in the 7th or 8th row becomes a headache for the opponent. Two rooks on that row can often provide mating attack or gain of material.
  4. Two rooks with lots of maneuvering space can often stand up to the opponent’s queen, particularly when minor powers and pawns are absent in the end game. You will find many games in chess archives where one player has given up the queen in exchange for two rooks.
  5. In endings where you have King, Rook and Pawn against King and Rook, your rook should be behind the pawn and your king should be next to the pawn to get a win.
Queen
  1. Even though it is the strongest piece, it needs a rook or some minor pieces for its most effective use.
  2. Avoid taking the queen too far out during the openings as it is likely to get ‘harassed’ by opponent’s minor pieces to cause you a loss of tempo.
King
  1. Always a liability, is it? It becomes more so, if it is at its original position. Aim to castle at the earliest opportunity.
  2. Both kings castled on the same side normally do not get an immediate early attack. You have to maneuver through the Queen’s side. But castled on the opposite sides allow both players to launch direct attack through pawn advances.
  3. Kings come into their own in the end game with major pieces removed from the board. Try to keep king near your pawn group for their advance. Be aware of the ‘Square’ and ‘Opposition’.
  4. In the endings with King and Pawn vs. King, make the king lead the pawn, not the other way.
  5. Make yourself familiar with the standard strategies for handling different types of endings with pawns, minor pieces, rooks etc. Learn to identify situations that may give win or only a draw.
Positional
  1. Initial pawn movements facilitate the development of your minor pieces. Do not get distracted from this objective.
  2. In the opening phase, avoid moving the same piece twice (unless forced to do so and learn to avoid those kinds of positions). It loses you tempo.
  3. You gain tempo when you can achieve two objects in one move. For example, a pawn move may attack some piece while opening a line for your own pieces. Look for such opportunities.
  4. Try to seize control of the center (d4, d5, e4, e5 squares) as this will give you more play and better attacks. Of course, some opening strategy, particularly for black), may deliberately surrender some control in the center to gain more play in the flanks to neutralize opponent’s advantage.
  5. Don’t be greedy! Sometimes you may find an easy pawn to pick up but it may be a trap (‘poisoned pawn’). Accepting it will often allow the opponent to launch a powerful attack and often the best way to neutralize is to return that material instead of trying to hold on to it.
  6. Do not launch a premature attack. Develop your pieces such that they coordinate well with one another and then plan your attack. Unless you do this, you may find your attack to lose steam and that may put you at a disadvantage.
  7. A locked center (your and opponent’s pawns facing each other without being able to capture any) restricts movement of pieces in the center and thus facilitates flank attack without fear of counter-play at the center. Keep this possibility in mind.
  8. Check which of the opponent’s pieces is controlling the play. Try to capture it at the earliest.
  9. Exchanging your inactive piece with a similar but active piece of the opponent gives you an advantage. Try to avoid such exchange if the reverse is true.
  10. When in trouble, remember that attack is often the best form of defense. Look for such possibility.
  11. Since coordination of pieces gives advantage, try to cut off communication between opponent’s pieces e.g. by advancing a supported pawn in the opponent’s line of communication.
  12. Be aware of pins and how to create one. Properly handled, they can yield significant advantage.
  13. When cornered in the end game, look for opportunities to get into a position allowing stalemate and draw. Sometimes, a piece sacrifice may offer you this opportunity in an otherwise desperate situation. When you have an upper hand, guard against the opponent taking this route to draw the game.
  14. Whatever openings you normally adopt, learn the ideas behind the moves and the targets to be achieved. Without this focus, you will only create weaknesses for yourself.
  15. In general, King’s pawn openings lead to more open games and direct attacks on the king. Queen’s pawn openings create somewhat closed positions that need more maneuvering and positional play to launch indirect attacks.

Chess Traps!

1. This trap is grounded by white in setting up the rook, bishop and queen on the D plane as shown below. The power unleashed by the movement of the bishop may result in many sorts of collateral loss. Analyze the board, with black to move.   
Which is the best next play for black? Let's narrow it down to a choice of two. Be7 or Nxe4? White has cleverly manouvered himself to a situation that has his rook easily uncovered along the depth of the board by a movement of the covering bishop on d2. Although white also has some power of position, if he doesn't play defensively, quickly, he's toast. He must be tempted to play for the knight by Nxe4 which then allows a possible fork for the knight on f2. Initially it looks like white could face some difficulties in defending the fork attack which threatens the white queen too. White's response to this attack is straight out of a Kasparov sytle Queen sacrifice. Consider how black's euphoria evaporates with whites Qd8+. Black can only take the Queen with his King, which white responds to by the double check of Bg5+. Think carefully, don't rush. Blacks only move out of check to C7 results in mate by Bd8++. Aren't those Queen sacrifices are the best wins?!




2. Consider the following layout, with white to move. The sequence is known as the Noahs Ark trap. The piece waiting to be boxed in? White's Bishop on b3.
  
The clear temptation for white is for her to take the tempting little morsal on d4. This she does. But black has her eye on the bigger fry(er) on b3. Blacks response is pawn to c5. White attacks by moving one square forward to d5. Good move huh? No, bad move. Blacks bishop to e6 nicely turns the tables. White sees the fork possibility for her by moving to c6. Black 'bishops' back to d7. White doesn't have many places to go, but can retreat back to d5, seeing the possibility of some repetitions of this sequence. But black has other ideas. That pawn now on c5 - can now box the white bish in with a move to c4. The captured bishop should have been more highly regarded by its monarchy.

3. Queen trapping is a noble sport. If a player can get into this position, the trap is difficult for white not to be tempted into. Here's the layout.
  
Black sees the potential of the move Qa5. White responds by the suprising axb4, exposing the rook to the hungry queen. But what about that d4 knight? Not seen. Queen takes the rook and is challenged by white moving his knight to b3. The black queen is trapped. Any square he can move to is covered by white's next punishing execution.